Showing posts with label Tektro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tektro. Show all posts

Saturday, August 30, 2008

The Frankenstein Bike

I have three geared mountain bikes now. The first a 1998 Bontrager Sport, which I will show later. The second is a 1993 Barracuda A2T that I bought from a friend a couple years back. But this post is about my newest completed project. A 92-92 Yokota Project USA mountain bike. The idea was simple. I had a need for a small framed mountain bike. A friend at work found this frame and offered it to me. It included the crankset. At first I had some strange idea that I would be able to build the bike from spare parts. First I had a 9 speed SRAM derailleur, shifter and cassette I got in trade for the cranks and derailleurs that came off my Peleton.
Also, I have some an NOS Bonty seat, brake levers, a handlebar and a used set of Panaracer tires thar still had some meat on them. Unfortunately I discovered immediately discovered that I really had nothing else that fit; off to the LBS that sells used parts. I planned on using a threaded fork and found a NOS Tange fork at the LBS. They further had a NOS XT cartridge headset, which are really nice BTW. My bike now had a fork.
I also needed a front derailleur and the LBS just gave me one (cool). The LBS also had one of those funky adjustable stems, which seemed to fit the bike. I looked up and saw a couple of wheelsets. The only one that really fit the bill were some old style XTR/Bontrager wheels. The LBS gave another deal ($100) and I had wheels. The LBS also had a set of Tektro V brakes they had taken off a bike when it was upgraded to discs; $15, score! This LBS did not have a seatpost or seatpost collar, so I checked another (Santa Cruz is so cool). I got a seatpost but no collar. Turns out 30.0 is an off size. I finally had to order one off the web.

Problems and Retro-fit

I thought the headtube was 1 1/8, but it turned out to be 1 ¼. I really don’t know how common 1 1/4 was in the early 90’s but there couldn’t have been a lot of them. I ended up needing a 1 1/4 to 1 1/8 reducer to make it fit.

The crank on the bike was a Standard size, meaning the chainrings were 46/36/24. Back in the middle to late 90’s Shimano switched a compact drivetrain, 42/32/22. They have now switched back, so I needed either a very old or a very new front derailleur to be compatible with the Standard. Fortunately my friend at the LBS had a newer front derailleur. Since it had a 26.8 clamp, which won’t fit on most new bikes since the industry has gone to larger seat tubes, he just through it in for no cost. A little more history here. Shimano's idea of a compact drive train meant smaller chainrings and smaller cassettes They reduced the 5 arm triple crank BCD from 110/74 to 94/58 and then to a 4 arm crank BCD of 104/64. The idea was to reduce weight. However as 9 speed cassettes grew to 34 teeth, there was really no point to the compact cranksets and Shimano went back to Standard size chain rings but stayed with the smaller 104/64 BCD.

The Yokota had three sets of cable stops on the right side. They where meant for the rear brake and derailleurs and the bike had a hanger for cantilever brakes. Since I was going to upgrade to V brakes, I had to run a brake cable down the right side. Unfortunately, I ran out of black cable and had to use white, but that’s easily fixed.

And that was about it. The only other issue was it looked like some had just taken a hammer and pounded off the old headset. I ended up filling the divots, masking the headbadge and repainting the headtube. It was more of a hassle than I thought, until I discovered I needed to wait 48 hours between coats. You can see some of the divots if you click on the seat tube photo.

The bike it not as pretty as my other bikes, but it’s very utilitarian. My wife is 502, my son is 9 and about 409, and I have a step-daughter that’s 506. My Bontrager is can also work with someone short in stature, as they were made very small. With all the bike riding we do as a family, I expect this Frankenstein bike will get lots of use.

Sunday, December 30, 2007

The NJS Plan Changes

I'm still waiting for the fork to come back from the painters; turns out the powder coater does not have a pearl white, so they will paint it a standard white and send it to a "wet" painter to for a coat of pearl clear. Then there is the topic of the crank. As I explained in an earlier post, I bought a beautiful NOS Suntour Superbe Pro. Unfortunately it was only the right side and in 165mm. 165mm is certainly the perfect size for a track crank, but it's also close to track specific. Now the Suntour cranks is also NJS, which means it connects to an ISO bottom Bracket Spindle. For those of you that don't know, the Industry standard for most square taper spindles in the US is JIS (the use of the JIS standard for spindles was driven by Shimano, which is confusing since they used the ISO standard for everything else). ISO is used by Campagnolo and some older European component makers; it is also the standard used for most track gruppos. The two standards are not in-compatible; ISO is a little smaller than JIS, meaning if you slide a JIS crank arm on a ISO spindle, the crank arm will stop about 4-5 mm farther then where an ISO crank arm would stop. If you have a worn crank, then you may run out of spindle. This is where the 165mm length comes into play. I figured I just pick-up a left Campy crank arm until I could find another Superbe. The problem is (as I said) 165mm is usually made for track, so the only left crank arms out there are 170's. I ended up with a Shimano 165mm crank arm. It was a beautiful Dura Ace, but it is JIS. The crank arm was new, so difference on the spindle was an acceptable 3-4 mm. I rode it this way for a few rides, but the fact that my bike had mis-matched standards weighed heavily on my mind.

Most of the parts I have accumulated for this project has been from Internet stores. One I pointed out earlier, was Rider Paradise. Unfortunately this site has dwindled to offering no parts at all. To take it's place I have been checking out njs-keirin.blogspot and njsframes.blogspot. Finally I found a Dura Ace crank on njs-keirin. $207 (+$25 shipping) for the crank, pedals and NJS straps. This was a great deal. The Dura Ace track cranks are NJS and really, really nice; certainly as nice as the Suntour cranks and I have both arms! The pedals are MKS Custom Nuevo(s).

Unfortunately I made a small mistake. I noticed the spindle of the right pedal was hanging up a little. Most likely it's a slight manufacturing defect. I took the pedal apart and took a Dremal bit to the exterior plastic seal; I could see a small polished portion on the spindle where the two were rubbing. The Dremal seemed to do the trick. I then noticed the same problem on the left side. This time I had a problem with the bolt that attached the spindle to the pedal. The pedals have two cartridge bearings pressed into the body and the spindle slides into the bearings. The spindle is held in place with a allen screw. With the right pedal, I needed to put the allen wrench in a vise and turn the spindle with a pedal wrench to loosen it. With the left pedal it seemed to be taking more torque than the left; then SNAP! Oh no. It turns out the screw was left hand threaded. The following day was a waste of about 8 hours trying to locate a replacement screw. I ended up with three options. 1) Throw the pedals away and buy some Soma Hellyer (RX-1 copies) for $70 (my original plan before I bought the used Custom Nuevo(s). 2) njs-keirin.blogspot has a set of beat up RX-1(s) for $35 (plus $25 shipping). The administrator of njs-keirin.blogspot has offered to sell me the pedals at a discount. 3) I found a Web store that will sell me a new set of axles (w/ right and left hand threaded allen screws) for $45. While the third is not the cheapest alternative, it should solve the original problem of the bent axles, plus replace the broken left handed screw.

The choice was determined by njs-keirin.blogspot as they offred to sell me the pedals for $5 plus the $25 shipping. . At this point I must admit that these pedals are not for the Keirin bike. As mentioned earlier, I have already bought a new pair of MKS Custom Royal Nuevo pedals for the NJS bike. The Royal Nuevo(s) are different as they have loose ball bearings; very cool. The used pedal will be for the green machine (my first fixed gear bike). The only real issue will be if the axles are compatible. Custom Nuevo(s) and RX-1 both have cartridge bearings and I'm guessing the spindles (bolts) and bearings are the same. The RX-1(s) have a more abbreviated cage than either the Custom Nuevo(s) and the pedals have different thread pattern for the cages. Best case scenario is the spindles will not only be compatible but in better shape. Regardless all I really expect is a left handed bolt that will work. I'll advise.

Well it worked. I got the pedals in short order and the left pedal had the left handed threaded screw I needed. The Custom Nuevo(s) are now functioning and I have installed them on the green machine. The RX-1 left pedal is a different story. It looks like it was in an accident and then used as a fishing weight for a while; and were talking ocean fishing here. The right pedal on the other hand was in good shape. The two obviously have different histories. While were on the subject of pedals, I bought a set of Christopher toeclips and straps (white) and I plan on using these on the track bike. The NJS bike has has become more of a concept bike. At first the idea of building a bike that could certified and ridden on a Keirin track sounded cool. However, as I have putting the bike together, I realized it would lose all personality and end up being one of the hundreds that are lined up in the basement of a Keirin track waiting to be ridden. I think I can understand why the Keirin racers treat their bikes with so much disdain. So here is the current line-up.

Frame: Soma Rush 55cm
Fork: Threaded Tange steel
Headset: Tange Levin engraved
Bottom bracket: Shimano Dura Ace (NJS) cups/bearings; Campagnolo spindle
Crank: Shimano Track (NJS)
Pedals: MKS (NJS)
Toeclips/straps: Lapize
Handlebars: Nitto (NJS)
Stem: Nitto (NJS)
Rims: Tubular Araya (NJS)
Spokes/Nipples: DT 15g
Hubs: Suzue Pro Max (NJS)
Tires: Vittoria CX
Wheels: 3 cross front/ 4 cross rear
Cogs:18T (Soma), 16T (Shimano)(NJS)
Seat post: Soma
Seat: Soma
Brake caliper: Tektro
Brake lever: Soma

Still waiting for the fork, then ...